YANNICK LUCA
Yannick Luca on surfing.
Model, surfer, globe trotter. Yannick Luca has lived in many places, and they all have one thing in common: surf.
To me, connecting with the sea is one of the rawest forms of being in nature. It's unpredictable, dangerous, fun, humbling and addicting. I like the saying 'the church of the open sky' because it represents a spiritual place for me. Every time I leave the water, it feels like I have learned something new and was able to release heavy energy and recharge with new. Figuring out how to surf the sea is like figuring out how to live this life; there are many ups and downs, but you end up trying again and again until you start understanding the patterns of the sea and the patterns of life.
I grew up in landlocked Germany but was fortunate to spend most of my holidays at sea in France. I remember watching surfers and the waves before I was allowed to go into the ocean by myself. It always fascinated me. Also, I was lucky as my uncle was a surfer and skater and had some special influence on me throughout my life. He got me into it in the beginning, and I still surf with him from time to time.
As long as I can remember, I dreamed about moving close to the ocean to bring surfing into my everyday life. It properly started when I was living in Australia and Mozambique, where surfing almost became a way of life. Now, I try to balance this passion while having a family.
My favorite place to surf is a long righthand pointbreak in Mozambique. It was a difficult and dangerous wave but incredibly thrilling. It's a 500-700m point, and you end up walking along the beach all day while you see your friends getting barreled and getting the longest waves of their lives. Miss that place.
Photography by Carlos Pinto and João Hasselberg.